How to Cut Pants into Capris and Add a Cuff – Part 2

How to Cut Pants into Capris and Add a Cuff, continued.

Continuing with the steps of this Super Sewing Technique, we complete the process of restyling a traditional, full-length pant pattern into a cuffed capri.

We are using your choice of either Petite Plus Patterns #601 Flat Front Pant (available as a printed pattern) or #606 Classic Fly-Front Pant (available as a pdf pattern).

Preparation of the pattern can be found in our earlier post, How to Cut Pants into Capris and Add a Cuff, Part 1.

Pressing

Before constructing your capri pant, lay the front and back leg pieces onto a press table and press the cuff creases in place.

Pressing creases in place before sewing allows you to “press flat”. Pressing flat ensures accuracy and no wiggly lines. When the pant is complete, you’ll only need to touch up the cuffs with a final press.

• Use a press cloth. (We’re not showing a press cloth so you can see the steps clearly, but you should use one to protect your fabric.)
• Set your iron temperature for the fabric you’re using. Press hard and use a little steam to create a sharp crease. (If you have a clapper, now’s a good time to use it.)
• Allow your fabric to cool before moving it.

First Crease

Use the notch clips as your guide and press the cuff to the inside.

With WRONG sides of fabric facing up, press the first cuff crease.

Second Crease

Fold the cuff again toward the WRONG side and press a second crease.

Complete the pant construction.

Return to your pattern guide sheet and complete the constructions of your pant. When it’s time to hem, come back to these instructions.

Hemming the Cuff

First, serge the raw edges of the hem.

• Now, take a close look at the photo below.
• Mark a hem placement line 1 cm (3/8 in) above the higher of the two creases.
• Position the serged edge of the hem along the placement line.
• Pin the hem in place.

Machine stitch hem in place, removing pins as you sew.

The really cool thing about this technique, is that when you’re done sewing, the hem stitching will be hidden beneath the cuff crease.

Secure the cuff in place with a few back & forth stitches in the ditch of the side seam and inseam.

Do a final press of the cuff from inside the pant.

Your completed cuff.